PCT – Day -1 (28/06) – Olympic National Park

I got up early today (6am-ish) and started off with an espresso and a latte, before jumping in my car to drive out to the Olympic National Park. I made the brave, yet foolish decision, to drive via Tacoma, rather than to use the ferry and got stuck in some traffic. Onboard coffee helped though, plus the happy thought that I probably won’t have to face any other traffic problems in the next few momths – or have you ever heard of a hiker jam?

Anyway, I made it out to the peninsula and, not really knowing where to go, flipped a coin and went up to the Hurricane Ridge visitor centre, eh … center. Not sure it was lucky, since some locals can probably point out at least 20 locations better, but I ain’t complaining.

Only half way up the mountain, I got my first taste of the tame wildlife.

Bambi getting ready to overtake

A little further on, the first decent look of some snow capped mountains.

It’s white and cold

Once at the top, I parked next to the visitor center and followed one of the short loop trails around the mountain top and encountered my first snow in years.

More snow

The visitor centre

The local wildlife was less impressed by my enthusiasm though.

Who can get excited about snow?

Despite it being overcast, the views were rather nice too.

What I really enjoyed though, were the beautiful little flowers on the meadows.

One thing Australia is grossly lacking is a decent abundance of wildflowers.

A little further on I came across even more wildlife. An Olympic marmot was peacefully munching on the dirt in the ground (not sure about the nutritional value, but hey, I’m not one to judge).

Punxsutawney Phil’s cousin

On my way back, I stumbled upon this fellow though, who seemed more than used to multicoloured humans shoving cameras up its nostrils. So I was a good little tourist and took a pic too.

What’re you looking at?

Alas, all good things must end and I had to go back. Did take the ferry this time though.

And it was a nice trip back to the hustle and bustle.

I finished the day by doing some last minute shopping and then some rather frentic searching for somewhere to discard all my rubbish I’d accumulated over the last few days (gear packaging and food wrappings). The complete lack of rubbish bins everywhere is rather astounding. In the end I split things into smaller bundles and distributed them amongst a collection of public bins at Discovery Park. Phew.

I’ve also been trying my hands (or should I say lips) at the American accent. Sometimes it works surprisingly well (especially with short and simple phrases), whereas at other times my Aussie twang shines through quite brightly. I’ll have to practice a lot more or people will think I’m Canadian.

The hardest part is not to call everybody “mate” though.

PCT – Day -2 (27/06) – Tiger Mountains

The day started well, at around 8.30am, with a shower and some darn good coffee from the specialty roaster next door to my hostel, the “Seattle Coffee Works”. I did a little wonder around town, whilst sipping my latte, but quickly decided that it would be better to hit the road and get exploring. So I had a quick glance at the map and without a lot of thinking decided to head for the biggest green blob, East of Seattle, the Tiger Mountain State Forest.

It was a nice drive along Interstate 90, after I’d cleared the major traffic, and eventually I arrived at the “East Tiger Summit” trail head.

As I stepped out of the car, the beautiful fragrance of a coniferous forest welcomed me and I happily stepped on to the trail. It’s a shared path for mountain bikes and hikers but thankfully it was quiet and bikes are only allowed one way: uphill.

The smell of the North

I also sampled the local food.

Despite the colour, it would’ve been better with a few more weeks of sunshine.

I kept walking for a couple of hours, but eventually had to turn around to finish up some shopping.

A good place to turn around

I did end up my day by driving out to a random parking lot in the Cougar Mountain Regional Wildland Park and packed my bag.

Seven days of food and three litres of water and still comfy. Thank you ZPacks.

I went to the hostel at around 9pm,had a shower and went to bed. Unnecessary web browsing kept me awake until 12.30am. Idiot.

PCT – Day -3 (26/06) – Flight

Well, who would’ve thought … the adventure begins.

This morning I woke up early, around 4am. I caught a cab to the airport at around 4.30am and made it into the terminal. My flight would be at 5.55am and the first leaving Townsville airport on that day. The terminal was nice and quiet and I was actually the first, who made it through the bag check. I had been quite worried that they might not allow me to take my pack as carry-on, but it went through without a problem.

My thinking in regards to the carry-on was that, on this occasion, a lost bag wouldn’t just be an inconvenience but a full blown catastrophe. So I had decided to leave all sharps and potential weapons at home and buy them anew in Seattle, as my personal insurance against loss.

Townsville airport in the morning

Anyway, I ended up waiting for a while, with only a cup of coffee to keep me company until it was time to board.

Just before push-back at TSV

The flight was quick and painless, with some beautiful cloud cover, illuminated in the early morning light.

Early morning over Queensland

Brisbane was nice and cool in the morning, when I stepped out of the terminal to transfer over to the international one and I had to wait for the bus only two minutes, which was great.

BNE transfer bus stop

The terminal itself isn’t too bad, but the choice of food, especially for breakfast, is rather tragic. I consoled myself with a wonderfully expensive chicken and leek pie (yes, for breakfast, why?) and a spinach roll. After that, I spent a couple of hours waiting in the marvellously mundane splendor that is BNE.

Brisbane international terminal. Yawn

At least I had some time to check out the 777 that would take me across the Pacific.

777-300ER – The “Noosa Heads Beach”

The flight itself wasn’t too exciting – as long haul flights rarely are (or probably shouldn’t be). I spent the time watching reasonably uninteresting movies (has there actually been anything interesting in the movies in 2017/2018?). At least I was able to stretch my legs, as I had paid extra for the emergency exit isle seat (26C) in Virgin’s “Economy X” class. It also came with a premium, noise cancelling pair of headphones that worked great (although it would appear that they are either designed for children or I have a swollen head).

Well, after 13 hours, I finally made it into LAX. A crazy airport that has pretty terrible signage (I daren’t think what it must be like for non-English speakers) and looks old, tired, and a little bit run down. At least I had a chance to freshen up my caffeine balance.

Wakey-wakey juice in a tired place

The flight to Seattle was horrible. I really hope that this wasn’t representative of most American domestic flights. Some people (of course not all) were fat, loud, slow, and inconsiderate. So it was two and a half of silent suffering for me until I finally made it into SEA – Seattle Tacoma International Airport.

Brown but clean SEA

From there I took the shuttle bus to the rental car facility next to the airport, where I picked up my white Dodge Malibu and made my way into downtown Seattle. It was no problem at all driving on the wrong side of the road again. The only thing that took me a little longer to get, was to train my eyes to recognise the speed signs at the side of the road, as they are amazingly indistinct and inconspicuous.

Good ride

My first stop was the Post Office at 301 Union Street to pick up the two parcels with goodies I’d shipped to myself as general delivery (or “poste restante” anywhere else). Alas, the hole in the wall had closed at 12.30pm already, so I moved on and drove out to the REI flagship store on 222 Yale street. It’s a nice shop. Slightly maddening that they have all the small items, I struggled to get together in Australia, just there on the shelf. Anyway, I picked up my pre-ordered items (ice axe, crampons, trekking poles, tent pegs, etc.), plus a few minor ones I’d picked out during my shop walk through. Met a nice young Dutch lady behind the counter, who was very friendly and helpful.

After that, I spent a little bit more time, driving around town to waste a bit more time, but eventually got back to the CBD and checked in at the “Green Tortoise Hostel” at 105 Pike street. I fell into my bed at about 8.15pm and slept for 12 hours straight.

Due to the magic of crossing the date line in reverse, my day had been over 33 hours long (Seattle is 17 hours behind Townsville). It had been a very long day indeed.


I am a hammocker. Not only do I sleep in one every night at home (I’ve evicted my massive Queen size bed about three years ago), I also love a good hammock when out on the trail. 

My full camping hammock setup

Even though my complete setup is a bit heavier than my tent (hammock + bug net + tarp = just over 700 grams), a hammock is vastly more comfortable than a mattress in a tent. Plus, the hammock can be used individually on sunny weekend days, to swing lazily in the breeze and read or nap. 
The only problem with hammocks is that you have to actually tie them to something. Since anti-gravity air hooks haven’t been invented yet, one generally has to make do with the next best thing: trees. Or rather two of them. One at each end. On top of needing two trees, they also need to be roughly the right distance apart. For landscape connoisseurs such as myself, who take views and lay of the land into consideration as well, make good hammock spots hard to come by. This has made me develop the terrible habit of judging everywhere I go, what it would be like to sling a piece of cloth there to laze around in. This can be a fun pastime, but sometimes excruciating when you find the most fantastic spot, but with none, or only one suitable tree available. 

This is where Vitaly Abalakov, Greg Lowe, and Ray Jardine come in to the picture. They are the fathers of the Spring-Loaded-Camming-Device (SLCD). Nowadays commonly referred to simply as “cam” or “friends” (the product name of Jardine’s original cam).

Whereas Abalakov and Lowe are the forefathers of SLCDs, Ray Jardine is arguably the inventor of the modern SLCD we use today. Cams are used in rock climbing, where they can fit into gaps in rock faces. The lobes that spread out, grab the rock and, when force is applied (usually when a climber falls), they really bite into the rock and enormous frictional forces prevent the cam from coming loose.

Biting lobes

If you have a bit of a nerd streak in you, it’s also worthwhile doing a bit of research into how the logarithmically spiralled lobes distribute the forces, etc. (two random sites I found on the topic: an overview and a bit more elaborate). 
Anyway, to keep a short story short: cams work beautifully with hammocks. So, if you have rocky outcrops or cliff formations you would like to expand your hammocking into, I can only urge you to invest a couple.

Just make sure that you read up on the dos and don’ts of placement for cams, before you flop your tired old cadaver into your hammock, or you might find yourself sprawling flat on the ground.

The other thing I really like about cams is, that they are easily removable and adhere to the old principle of “leave no trace” when out in Mother Nature’s lap.

Personally I went for a Black Diamond Camalot C4 0.75 (the green ones (different sizes are colour coded)). The Black Diamonds are commonly considered to be of very good quality, and their dual-axis actuation allows for a wider range of what sort of gaps the cam fits into. The 0.75 size has a range of 23.9-41.2 mm and weighs in at a 119 grams. Probably not a piece of kit I’d take on an extended hike, where grams are counted, but I will probably have it with me on weekend tours as standard from now on. This should broaden my pool of potential hammock sites considerably.

Staff Infection

To Pole or Not to Pole

… that is often the question. A question I shall not answer in this review, as I believe that it is a very personal thing that cannot necessarily be answered by reading about the pros and cons in an article.
If you haven’t answered that question for yourself yet, I suggest some research on the Internet. Millions of contradicting articles are waiting for you to be discovered. The best advice I can give, is to read up on the reasons why you might want to use poles for hiking, and also learn how to use them properly (there’s a surprising number of people out there, who don’t). Then go and try some out for yourself. Not just for five minutes in your local hiking store, but rather on at least a day hike, or better even a weekender. Get some altitude in there as well. Using poles on flat terrain alone only tells half the story.

As a disclaimer, I have to say, that I have done all the research and have tried poles on weekends and some longer hikes and have come to the conclusion that they are not for me. I totally get why people use them and am totally aware that I actually should be using them (I’ve got a wonky knee), but I can’t help it: I don’t like them.

Well, this is where ZPacks’ carbon fibre staff comes in. Not only does it make me look like Terminator Gandalf, it also works a little different to traditional hiking poles. Why? Well, first of all, because you only have one, rather than two poles. The staff is rather tall (152 cm), yet very thick (2.1 cm) and rigid, and very light (212 g). It’s a pretty stable platform, even for a big guy like myself (189 cm, 98 kg). The biggest advantage, I find, is that it is a lot less restrictive to use. To me, the following points are mostly advantages. However, I am aware that the same points can as well be seen as disadvantages. It just depends on how you use your poles and how you look at it.


“You shall not pass!” (You’ll have to add Arnie’s accent yourself.)

The Ikea Side of Things

First off, this is how the staff arrives to you from ZPacks. It’s actually four separate pieces (and not three, like the photo would suggest) that are held together by a single piece of dyneema cord that is fed through the cores of the pieces.


The staff in its separate pieces.

It all comes together when you combine the pieces. All you then have to do is tighten the dyneema cord and try to get a simple knot that is tied into it, to hook into a little notch or groove that’s been carved into the top piece. Finally, you simply feed a rubber stopper over the end to hold it all together and to make for a more pleasant tactile experience, should you grab the staff from the top.

Grip Level

The grip is not actually an individual grip, like you might expect from a traditional hiking pole, it’s more like a grip area. That means you can change the height of your poles on the fly. That is, whilst you’re bringing the staff up or down, you can let it slip through your hand to adjust for changing terrain immediately in front of you. Perfect for rugged, undulating terrain, where you might walk down a slope for a few meters, only to then have to climb up again over a few rocky boulders, etc. Although normal hiking poles can often be height adjusted, you usually have to decide whether you’re mostly walking uphill or mostly walking downhill,and then stick with that setting for a while.

The disadvantage of the non existing grip on the ZPacks staff is that it is less comfortable holding it for prolonged times, because the grip is not pronounced and not exactly ergonomic.


The top end – swathed with grippy fabric for sweaty hands.

The problem of discomfort is compounded by the only real gripe I have with the grip. The sweat grip. It’s basically just a piece of fabric (which has a great feel to it. Brownie points for that), which is sewn together to create a hose that is simply slidden over the staff and held in place by the single piece of dyneema cord that also holds the staff pieces together.

The concept creates two problems. Firstly, one has to keep a fairly firm grip the entire time to keep the fabric from sliding up and down the pole. Personally I always like to slacken my grip on the forward motion to give my fingers a brief moment of respite before I tighten my grip again when the staff hits the ground. The way the grip works at the moment, doesn’t work. It’s not only annoying, but also tiring.


Dyneema cord and line lock to keep the sweat grip in place.

The other problem is that the sweat grip is only kept in place by the before mentioned  dyneema cord. This is fed through a simple LineLoc 3 to stop movement. Great in theory, not so great in reality. What actually happens is that when I use the staff to pull myself up a slope or rock, I apply slow and steady force that the line lock cannot hold. As a result the sweat grip keeps creeping further and further down the pole so that I have to re-tighten the cord every few minutes. On my way home from the test outing I actually took the fabric off and used the staff without it. Gripping the bare carbon fibre wasn’t the bee’s knees either, but it actually worked slightly better. I think I will see if I can find a good grip tape (maybe for tennis rackets?) and wrap that around the staff. I’ll update on this later.

One thing I found rather curious is that, when I removed the sweat grip, I found out that the staff has actually four pieces, rather than three (I had always wondered how ZPacks had come up with their litany of “Some Possible Folded Lengths”, quoted on their website (see link at the bottom)). The top third of the staff is actually two separate pieces. The second (hidden) piece also has the cut-in groove for the dyneema cord to hook into so that the staff could be used in a shorter configuration. Personally I can’t quite see any reason for me to do that, which is why I am slightly baffled by that fourth piece, but it’s quite probable that others have found it necessary and that is why it’s there. If there is anyone who could enlighten me …

Anyway, the ZPacks staff is not there to be used all day anyway (like probably most traditional poles), but rather when you need it. Some might argue that you would be better off just using a branch when you need the support. However, that is forgetting that not everywhere are trees, and not everwhere are sticks lying around of the right length, thickness, and lightness.

In my case, the staff also doubles as tent pole and it would be nigh to impossible to find the right kind of branch for that purpose every night.


UPDATE 26/04/2017: Finally got around to update the staff grip. I got myself some tennis racquet grip tape and wrapped it along the length of the first third of the staff (I used two bands of tape to cover the length). Has it worked? Why, yes. It has. It’s brilliant! Tennis grip tape was definitely the right decision. Very grippy, even with sweaty palms; easily replaceable if used up, cheap, and hopefully relatively easy to buy in many parts of the world.


Tennis racquet? No, hiking staff.


Can’t Strap It Down

This brings us to one of those things that you will see either as an advantage or disadvantage. The lack of straps. Straps on traditional poles serve multiple purposes and do a great job if you use them correctly (in case you don’t know: come in from below, not from above (YouTube is your friend)). One of the big things about straps is that they basically tether the poles to your hand. This means that in case you suddenly have to grab hold of something to steady yourself or to stop yourself falling, you can let go of the poles without losing them (yes, in a fast flowing river crossings, that would be a problem). The ZPacks staff doesn’t have straps. Ergo: if you let go, it lets go.

Personally I loathe straps around my wrists (for all the wrong reasons), and I couldn’t be happier that the staff doesn’t have them. I guess, as long as you’re aware of the implications, it shouldn’t be a problem even if you’re a strappy kind of person.

The Bitter End …

Well, the bottom part of the staff is also quite different to what most would expect from a traditional hiking pole. It’s not pointy and has no provision to attach a snow basket to it. Compared to a “normal” pole it looks more like an elephant’s foot. Big, round, and cumbersome.


The elephant’s foot.

Of course, the thick diameter doesn’t make it cumbersome at all. However, the comparison to an elephant’s foot is less of an insult than you might think. It makes you sure footed. The bottom bit is made of 6 millimeter thick, solid titanium, which will probably outlast the sun, and it feels quite grippy, due to the large surface area touching the ground. It also worked surprisingly well on wet rocks, without sudden and uncontrolled slippage.

Naturally, the staff is not designed for alpine adventures and would probably disappear deep into a snow drift or crevasse if you were to take it there.

Other Considerations

Admittedly, the ZPacks staff is not the lightest hiking pole on the market (e.g. Gossamer Gear’s LT4 is almost half the weight). However, I would be willing to place a bet that probably none are quite as sturdy as this one. The carbon fibre is thick and solid and seems less prone to splintering and breakage than some of the other carbon fibre offerings out there.

This quality enables it also to be used with both hands. Not only is there enough grip area along the staff, but the feel is so solid that I had no hesitation to play old man on the track and pull myself up a boulder, with both hands,  lifting most of my body weight (plus pack). Apparently the staff is so sturdy that it can (but shouldn’t) be used for pole jumping over small creeks (see video ).

It packs away small enough. No no no. I said “small enough”, not “small”. But it should fit inside most packs though.

 … And the Bottom Line

Would I recommend this staff?

Bearing in mind that I have only used it for a short weekend trip so far, I would say: unquestionably.

Not for everybody and not for every situation, but as long as you’re aware of what you’re gaining and what you’re losing over traditional hiking poles (or no poles, for that matter), I think this could be one of the most tremendous pieces of equipment you’re buying this year.

Where can you buy it? Here!  (Yes, they ship to Australia at reasonable rates. Just make sure you pay the little extra for express post or you’ll wait months for your package to arrive.)

Aunty Adder Addled my Step

Sneaky little devil almost cut my serene weekend on Magnetic Island short. Death adders are famous for not getting out of your way (even though, compared to them, you are a big lumbering monster) and for having a rather nasty bite. Although it may not have killed me (the last recorded death due to a death adder in Queensland was an 11 year old girl in the 1930s (at least according to Wikipedia)), it would certainly have ruined my day.

In the end, I respectfully retracted my already extended foot, and bravely chose a different path through the undergrowth.

Thanks for chilling out on top of the warm rock, rather than being buried under some leaf litter, where I would probably not have spotted you.img_20170219_081849

Cape Trib Trip – Homewards

The night in Charters wasn’t overly fantastic and we were reasonably glad to take our leave. Instead of taking the Flinders highway, we decided to take the detour and go back via Hervey Range road.

We did stop at Dalrymple National Park for lunch and were mighty disappointed that we hadn’t stopped there for the night. It’s really pretty – once you drive further out, away from the hideous! camp area next to the highway.

Our last stop was the obligatory Hervey Range lookout, before returning home.


Castle Hill on the Far Right


Massive Shower Over Cape Bowling Green


Massive Shower Over Cape Bowling Green (Castle Hill on the Left)